Maris Otter Malt from a Distilling POV

Follow The Beer: Why Distillers Should Consider Maris Otter Malt

Maris Otter Malt being picked up from the bag to be used in distillingMaris Otter is a titan for brewers. Introduced in 1965, this English variety has survived and thrived as other malts have fallen by the wayside. It’s regarded as the best there is, both in terms of flavor and ease of use – and this reputation for quality unites breweries old and new in admiration.

Distillers also once relied on Maris Otter, but over the years, it has drifted out of favor, until now. Producers as diverse as Holyrood and Strathearn, not to mention Glenmorangie, are leading a move into more flavorsome malt varieties, particularly Maris Otter. It could be a shrewd move in a market where producers often focus on maturation rather than ingredients.

“Maris Otter is certainly growing in popularity,” says Stuart Swann, Crisp’s Distilling Sales Manager in Scotland. “We are starting to see distilleries – especially the smaller, more artisan producers – looking for points of difference in terms of flavor and story, and Maris Otter provides that.”

It’s an interesting shift that could have a huge impact on whisky – but is it wise? Are there reasons to be wary? We spoke to three experts – Holyrood’s Distillery Manager, Calum Rae, Crisp Malt’s Technical Director, Dr Dave Griggs, and Stuart Swann – to find out more.

Magnificent Maris: Flavour

Maris Otter being used in the distillery

For Calum Rae, the motivation to use Maris Otter Malt is obvious. “We really love Maris Otter because it’s got this really strong biscuity note that you don’t see as much in standard distilling malt,” he says. “Our distillery profile is really fruit forward, so by using Maris Otter we can offset that. It’s a great balance.”

Texturally, it makes a difference too. “It’s got a really rich body, and it’s got a little bit more thickness to it,” he says. “It’s really pleasant.”

This richer, rounder, the fuller flavor can be more prominent in a distilled drink than in a beer, according to Stuart. “It’s almost more noticeable in a distilled spirit,” he says. “There’s this ongoing debate in beer as to whether Maris Otter brings more than a standard malt – and I think it does. But there’s definitely more of a flavor difference in a spirit.”

Play Safe with the Barrel

A lot of whisky’s flavor comes from maturation in the barrel and the skill of the subsequent blending – so where does that leave malt character? If you want to highlight Maris Otter’s flavor, then go easy on the character picked up in the barrel.

“You’ve got to be careful what you put it into. Otherwise, you’ll overwhelm the flavor,” says Dave. “Not sherry, or port, or red wine casks. It might be best to put it into almost an exhausted cask.”

Magnificent Maris: Ease of Use

Dr Dave Griggs from Crisp MaltOne of the reasons Maris Otter has become so popular with smaller brewers is that it’s very forgiving in the brewhouse. “We did a test a few years ago, and we found that Maris Otter performed as well at 64 or 66 degrees in the mash tun as it did at the perfect temperature of 65,” says Dave. “With other malt varieties, you have to be much more precise to get the best results.”

Distillers who’ve used it have been similarly impressed. “Compared to its cousins, the other heritage varieties, it’s an absolute dream to use,” Calum says. “It’s really processable for us, and it means we don’t have to change how we’re making our whisky too much, but we’re getting the benefit of Maris Otter. It’s a great one to use.”

A couple of things to flag up

Maris Otter yields are smaller than with a standard malt. “A modern malt like Laureate could give you 415 liters out of every tonne used,” Dave says. “But with Maris Otter, that could be under 400 liters.”

Also, unlike some modern varieties, Maris Otter produces Glycosidic Nitrile, which can come through as Ethyl Carbamate in the spirit. Canada has legislative limits in place for this, as a certain amount has been found to be carcinogenic.

Luckily, there are simple ways to ensure Ethyl Carbamate doesn’t become a problem  – and, of course, Crisp’s experts are always on hand to help.

It’s well worth being aware of these things and focusing on the details and the solutions because the pay-off – a drink bursting with rich, biscuity Maris Otter flavor – is something really special.

Magnificent Maris: Quicker to Market

With Maris Otter, you’re adding the key flavor element during the first stage of production. Stuart says this is a distinct advantage as it could make it easier to get your product on sale sooner. “Traditionally, distillers rely on maturation and the skill of the blender to add a lot of the character to the whisky,” he says.

“But modern distillers like Holyrood are providing the character up front. Calum and his colleagues take some of their inspiration from the brewing world, using different yeasts and malt varieties normally associated with brewing.

“The investment in up-front character gives you a really flavorsome product after three years. You can use different components to achieve those up-front flavors, and you don’t have to wait for a decade, sitting on a product that’s earning you no money.”

Calum underlines the point about depth of flavour. “Just look at how many great beers are made with Maris Otter!

“But also take a look at the ale yeasts used in brewing: they work really well for us too. We’ve had some real success with Belgian ale strains. One of our house favorites is an Edinburgh ale yeast, which works really well with Maris Otter.”

He stops to have a think about it.

“But they all do,” he adds.

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