Since 1870 we’ve lived and breathed malting. With this passion and expertise, and by combining traditional and modern techniques, we create an impressive range of malted and non-malted products, including several unique and exclusive barley malts.
There is nothing more we love than talking to brewers and distillers so if you have any questions, or would like to arrange a call with a member of our team, please feel free to get in touch – we would love to hear from you!
For brewers, Maris Otter is a titan. Introduced in 1965, this English variety has survived and thrived as other malts have fallen by the wayside. It’s regarded as the best there is, both in terms of flavour and ease of use – and this reputation for quality unites breweries old and new in admiration.
Distillers also once relied on Maris Otter, but over the years it has drifted out of favour. Until now. Producers as diverse as Holyrood and Strathearn, not to mention Glenmorangie, are leading a move into more flavoursome malt varieties, particularly Maris Otter. In a market where producers often focus on maturation rather than ingredients, it could be a shrewd move.
“Maris Otter is certainly growing in popularity,” says Stuart Swann, Crisp’s Distilling Sales Manager, in Scotland. “We are starting to see distilleries – especially the smaller, more artisan producers – looking for points of difference in terms of flavour and story, and Maris Otter provides that.”
It’s an interesting shift which could have a huge impact on whisky – but is it wise? Are there reasons to be wary? We spoke to three experts – Holyrood’s Distillery Manager, Calum Rae, Crisp Malt’s Technical Director, Dr Dave Griggs, and Stuart Swann – to find out more.
For Calum Rae, the motivation to use Maris Otter Malt is obvious. “We really love Maris Otter because it’s got this really strong biscuity note that you don’t see as much in standard distilling malt,” he says. “Our distillery profile is really fruit forward, so by using Maris Otter we can offset that. It’s a great balance.”
Texturally, it makes a difference too. “It’s got a really rich body, and it’s got a little bit more thickness to it,” he says. “It’s really pleasant.”
This richer, rounder, fuller flavour can be more prominent in a distilled drink than in a beer, according to Stuart. “It’s almost more noticeable in a distilled spirit,” he says. “There’s this ongoing debate in beer as to whether Maris Otter brings more than a standard malt – and I think it does. But there’s definitely more of a flavour difference in a spirit.”
A lot of whisky’s flavour comes from maturation in barrel, and the skill of the subsequent blending – so where does that leave malt character? If you want to highlight Maris Otter’s flavour, then go easy on the character picked up in barrel.
“You’ve got to be careful what you put it into, otherwise you’ll overwhelm the flavour,” says Dave. “Not sherry, or port, or red wine casks. It might be best to put it into almost an exhausted cask.”
One of the reasons Maris Otter has become so popular with smaller brewers is that it’s very forgiving in the brewhouse. “We did a test a few years ago, and we found that Maris Otter performed as well at 64 or 66 degrees in the mash tun as it did at the perfect temperature of 65,” says Dave. “With other malt varieties, you have to be much more precise to get the best results.”
Distillers who’ve used it have been similarly impressed. “Compared to its cousins, the other heritage varieties, it’s an absolute dream to use,” Calum says. “It’s really processable for us, and it means we don’t have to change how we’re making our whisky too much, but we’re getting the benefit of Maris Otter. It’s a great one to use.”
Maris Otter yields are smaller than with a standard malt. “A modern malt like Laureate could give you 415 litres out of every tonne used,” Dave says. “But with Maris Otter, that could be under 400 litres.”
Also, unlike some modern varieties, Maris Otter produces Glycosidic Nitrile, which can come through as Ethyl Carbamate in the spirit. Canada has legislative limits in place for this, as a certain amount has been found to be carcinogenic.
Luckily, there are simple ways to ensure Ethyl Carbamate doesn’t become a problem – and, of course, Crisp’s experts are always on hand to help.
It’s well worth being aware of these things and focusing on the details and the solutions because the pay-off – a drink bursting with rich, biscuity Maris Otter flavour – is something really special.
With Maris Otter, you’re adding the key flavour element during the first stage of production. Stuart says this is a distinct advantage as it could make it easier to get your product on sale sooner. “Traditionally, distillers rely on maturation and the skill of the blender to add a lot of the character to the whisky,” he says.
“But modern distillers like Holyrood are providing the character up front. Calum and his colleagues take some of their inspiration from the brewing world, using different yeasts and malt varieties normally associated with brewing.
“The investment in up-front character gives you a really flavoursome product after three years. You can use different components to achieve those up-front flavours, and you don’t have to wait for a decade, sitting on a product that’s earning you no money.”
Calum underlines the point about depth of flavour. “Just look at how many great beers are made with Maris Otter!
“But also take a look at the ale yeasts used in brewing: they work really well for us too. We’ve had some real success with Belgian ale strains. One of our house favourites is an Edinburgh ale yeast, which works really well with Maris Otter.”
He stops to have a think about it.
“But they all do,” he adds.
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